Unlike our Corvair buddies who live in other parts of the country that experience four seasons, we can mostly drive our Corvairs year round.
Many of us still choose to retire our Corvairs for the winter, and thats ok. With warmer weather and more events on the horizon, we thought it would be worth sharing this helpful primer from Mike Dawson that originally appeared in the HOACOA VairCor newsletter in Mar 2024.
Disaster Prevention and Trip Checks (It Is Dust Off Time)!
Since you are reading this, you must own a 55+ year old Corvair; congratulations on a great choice. However, along with the pride and joy comes responsibility. You may have stored your baby all winter or maybe you might be behind on preventive maintenance, in either case the following may be useful as a guide to start the new season.
Beginning with disaster prevention:
• If you have not replaced all of the steel brake lines in your car you should do the “stomp test” in your garage. Hit the brake pedal harder than you might do in an emergency. If this passes, then push and hold the pedal with minimum pressure, checking for a slowly sinking pedal which would indicate a bad master cylinder.
• All 164 CI engines should have a harmonic balancer. The balancer is held together by a vulcanized rubber to damper harmonic vibration in the engine. Over time, the rubber may come apart with the outer ring quickly cutting a slot in the oil filter. If yours has been in service for decades, keeping an eye on it seems a poor choice when you can change it and take that off the list of things to look at every time you stop.
The following is a list of items I suggest checking before taking a trip (or after buying a car). Remember that even long trips are usually less than the mileage between a single oil change. Serviced properly, your Corvair will cruise to all of this summer’s events and back. And be happier for it!
1. All Corvairs roll on four sets of wheel bearings and they all can be repacked. Check & lube the 2 or 4 U-joints. Check front end parts and lube the fittings (install any missing ones on the car idler arm or FC lever).
2. Have tires balanced and aligned if necessary. Before trips, check all five tire pressures and tighten lug nuts with the tool you use to change a tire.
3. Check or change all fluids: oil, transmission, differential, brake fluid, washer fluid and battery level (if possible). Synthetic Powerglide fluid is a very good idea, and with regard to oil, remember that our air cooled engines run hotter and have greater engine tolerances than newer cars. Ed note: Mike made a suggestion at this point for midwest owners to use a 20/50 or SAE 30 oil for high midwest summer temps. We have members on the cooler coast and warmer inland. Some owners in moderate climates prefer 10/30 or 10/40 while those inland prefer a heavier weight. The most important point that the club stands behind is to make sure the oil remains clean. It is vital for air cooled engines. Check the dipstick periodically to make sure the oil level is full and the oil is a “straw” or “honey” color. If it’s dark, change it!
4. Check the oil pressure sending unit and change this inexpensive item if you do not know its history.
5. Check the engine tune, and include cleaning the crankcase vents. Check the breaker plate in the distributor, lube the distributor cam and inspect the electrical connections such as the primary coil wires, alternator wires (no generators allowed) and multi-connectors. Check carburetor inlet nuts for leaks.
6. Check the battery date, cable ends, ground cable mount and check the overall charging system with the lights and accessories on maximum.
7. Remove the belt and check the condition of the entire length. Spin all three pulleys and lube anything questionable. Tools are available to grease the fan and idler bearing.
8. Check all running lights, check the fuse block for rust, check the large multi- connector in early model engine compartments on the left side (by-pass the 10 gauge wire), and check warning light operation.
9. If air conditioned, blow out the condenser, check the mounts, the belt, check the evaporator drain. Remove the lower shrouds for better cooling if you need it.
10. Be sure to check a mechanical fuel pump mount, it can work loose. To be safe with the increasing ethanol addition you should have a new version of the mechanical pump or an electric pump. If you already have an electric pump, check the pre-filter.
11. Lube your late clutch cable ball and look for frayed cable between the two pulleys under the dash on early models – also check parking cables in the same area and lube the parking brake ratchet.
12. Check brakes; wheel cylinders, shoes, master cylinder (push rod leak under the dash), and most important, the steel and rubber lines. As noted above, give your car the “stomp test” in the driveway. Steel lines above the gas tank and next to the transaxle are the most prone to rust, with tunnel lines next.
13. Be aware of any speedometer error you may have and know your oil consumption rate. Test drive 15 minutes on the highway on a hot day, pack up and head out!
Spares and tools? My favorites would be a belt, a new fuel pump, one rocker arm with pushrod and valve cover gasket, one 30 amp fuse, a set of points and condenser (if equipped), oil as required, tools for these items, and a good roadside assistance membership. Hagerty and AAA both offer great options and are worth the cost.
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